Secondhand chat is a series of conversations featuring passionate sourcers, stylists, sellers and secondhand creators who want to share their love of old clothes with a new community.
In today's blog we speak with Vintage Fashion and Pre-loved style Expert, Emily London. Her mission is simple. Emily wants you to be able to shop sustainably and with intention. I came across Emily after a recommendation from @reboundrunway....oh the joys of social media and word of mouth! I instantly feel for her professional attitude and joy towards the pre-loved space. So much so that even though there is a fair amount of cross-over between what we both do, I thought this is an opportunity to shed light on the demand for secondhand styling, and the benefits it can bring to both your life and wallet!
With that said, I'm very pleased (and honoured) to welcome Emily.
As a secondhand expert you are constantly creating unique and exciting pre-loved stories with your community both on and offline. Your content ranges from charity shop trips to in-person styling sessions in and around London. I'm interested to learn more about how your secondhand style journey began?
My secondhand style journey began when I was a child. I used to go ‘knicky-knacky-noo’ shopping with my granny in Flookburgh, Cumbria, where she lived. She had a passion for antiques and used to run an antiques business. She was a font of knowledge and I learnt so much from watching her move around a charity shop. No corner was left unturned! I continued shopping this way as a teenager, through necessity and a continue passion for clothes from bygone eras. I was obsessed with clothes from the 40s and 50s. Starting my career in fashion journalism, I felt the pressure to wear the clothes and the accessories of the season and spent a small fortune on fast fashion as well as designer sale buys. This continued through to my thirties. I still charity shopped but I’d lost my way a little. Shopping for the sake of it and none of the purchases really connecting with my personal style. It wasn’t until 2017 that I took stock of what was happening and put a stop to mindless online shopping sprees and ‘whack it on the credit card’ end-of-sale buys. I went to back to basics and began to explore what it means to be considered in my shopping decisions through the lens of secondhand shopping.
Shopping preloved is no longer seen as a second-rate option!
Consumers habits are constantly shifting, more so than ever. How has the secondhand space changed over the last 5 years?
The last five years has seen so many changes in the secondhand space. Firstly, it has become a lot more mainstream. Shopping preloved is no longer seen as a second-rate option! There are so many levels to it, too. From luxury resale sites like Vestiaire Collective, to The Real Real and The Restory, to third party marketplace sites, like ASOS Marketplace which gives independent vintage stores and charity shops, the opportunity to sell retro clothes to its millennial audience. More recently, fashion rental sites are creating waves, as well as the vintage sellers making money directly through their TikTok and Instagram channels. It’s a really exciting time to be shopping secondhand.
What are some trends that you are noticing when it comes to ways in which people are styling pre- loved fashion?
Not so much a trend, as a groundswell of interest in styling clothes that reflect the wearer’s true style. I’ve seen a lot of people create content about that on Instagram and I’m here for it. It’s what I love talking about it, too. Figuring out what your personal style is, is key to changing your shopping habits and mindset, so you don’t feel the need to buy into every micro-trend or seasonal impulse. Plus, you’ll have a wardrobe filled with fab clothing you can enjoy wearing for years to come.
What was your favourite secondhand purchase that you will never pass on?
Last year I bought the most incredible 80s ALAIA sheepskin coat from FARA charity shop in Parsons Green. It is such a joy to wear and I haven’t stopped wearing it. It cost £185 but it would sell for at least three times that amount if I sold it now. I won’t part with it as it is such a timeless piece from an iconic designer. I look forward to wearing it when I’m old and grey.
What are your top 5 tips for caring for your clothes?
1. Don’t wash them too often! Get used to spot washing surface stains and even leaving something outside to freshen up.
2. Keep room in your freezer to freeze all-natural fibre clothing, especially wool. It helps to kill moth eggs. Make sure you leave anything you freeze for at least a week.
3. Reduce the temperature you wash your clothes at. I tend to wash everything at 30 degrees, if I have to wash them. I believe it extends the life of my clothes.
4. Invest in a wool comb or fabric shaver. Use it regularly. Your jumpers will look as good as new after it.
5. Don’t dry clean items, handwash them. The chemicals used in dry cleaning can have adverse effects on the fabric of your clothes. Use sparingly.
I strongly believe good quality fashion should be available to all. How can we make sure the secondhand space is more inclusive?
There are so many different ways to find good quality fashion in the secondhand space. It’s important to work out how to make it work for you and your lifestyle. There isn’t a set way to do this. From joining Facebook groups which arrange clothes swaps in your local area, to shopping in charity shops and online on Vinted, there will always be a way to find good quality fashion at a price you can afford.
What are your thoughts on buying new? How can we support todays independent brands and designers yet still be conscious consumers?
I’m not adverse to buying new at all. I just think it’s important to consider every purchase and make sure that it will be of use in your wardrobe for years to come. Last year I bought a pair of trousers from a brand called Kin in a charity shop and loved them so much, I’ve saved a search for them on eBay and Vinted and would consider buying them new if they came up for sale. They suit my shape and fit well with the other items in my wardrobe, so it’s a positive purchase!
Likewise, when it comes to independent small businesses, we need to consider the impact our purchases make with them. We shouldn’t bring the shopping habits, acquired from shopping fast fashion to the small business space. For example, buying several sizes of one item to see what the fit’s like only to return everything. That type of consumer practice has a detrimental effect on small businesses’ finances. Instead carefully consider if this item will work for you. Ask questions directly with the store and check the measurements before you click to buy.
Who are your top 5 secondhand styling icons?
@joyouscloset – an incredible vintage collector and seller. Love her style which is filled with museum-worthy designs by Yves Saint Laurent, Halston, Bill Blass and Christian Dior
@volumes_of_vintage – a Baltimore based vintage super-fan who clashes print like a pro. Love to see her colour pop outfit pics. Pure inspiration.
@izzy_manuel – spreads her love of ‘dopamine dressing’ on Instagram. Love her joyful outfits which are as sustainable as they are colourful.
@knackered_cow – aka April Salsbury, she has a huge following on Depop and rightly so, her outfits are cool, classic and little bit funky.
@carla.rockmore – this jewellery designer has a wardrobe Carrie Bradshaw would swoon over and I love how she combines vintage designer pieces with more contemporary styles.
Where can we follow and support your journey?
I’m in the process of getting my website finalised, when it’s ready you will be able to shop my edit of vintage and preloved designer styles, plus I’ll be offering personal sustainable styling services and guided charity shop tours. Till then you can follow me on Instagram @emilylondon, where I’ll be documenting my charity shop trips every Monday as well as sharing my knowledge and advice on how to shop in a slow, considered way.
